One of the charming traits of Amman are the stairs around the city, almost artery-like connecting the hills and downtown - that heart pumping life along the stairs into the neighborhoods and nooks.

A couple of wonderful stair trails connect Jabal Al Qal3a with Hashmi street, right across the Roman Theatre.

On Salamah bin AlAkwa Street on Jabal Al Qal3a, there's a square viewing point that overlooks the hill down to Hashmi. On either side of the viewing point is a flight of stairs. They are comfortable to go down and up.

Along one, you can find a little Internet cafe and the eclectic Amman Panorama Art Gallery.

Towards the bottom of the other, you pass by a sweets bakery and get a delicious whiff of fresh Hareeseh and other local yummies before you hit the little road that winds down to Hashmi street, and as you look up ahead sits the Roman Theatre. If you linger outside the bakery, the baker is sure to come out and give you a free taste of his latest fresh bake, still warm and total satisfaction for those with a sweet tooth.

So when you're on Hashmi street next time, walk along to shop #7 and take the stairs up Jabal Al Qal3a, and before you get to the very top to visit the archeological site of the Citadel - experience the pulse of life in the heart of Amman, hang out with the neighborhood kids playing in the alleys, some will be making colorful kites you see flying over the Jabal on breezy summer afternoons.

This little excursion is a total immersion into typical old Amman life - for Ammani's it's a trip down memory lane, for visitors it's one of those authentic experiences you are sure to cherish from a part of Amman with a true soul. Take the stairs, it's a walk full of delights.